Don Juan Tenorio

It’s a Spanish custom to put on the play Don Juan Tenorio every year on October 31.  If you’ve heard the phrase, “He’s such a Don Juan,” this is the character from which it originates.  The actual Don Juan Tenorio is in a tomb in El Escorial, Spain.  Knights were buried with their gloves off if they were killed in combat…to be buried with gloves on is a sign that it was a cowardly death…Don Juan was buried with his gloves on and multiple rings on each finger for all of the women that he had.  The CentroCultural de España de Buenos Aires carries this tradition of hosting the play, and this year the ambassador of Spain and the Tourism Counselor of Spain had roles.

Rafael Estrella, el embajador de España (the Spanish ambassador)

Julio Moreno Ventas, Consejero de Turismo de España (the Spanish Counselor of Tourism)

Ana’s Birthday

A quick note on Halloween in Buenos Aires.  It’s primarily an ex-pat holiday – the bars in the touristy areas have drink offers and people dress up, and some of the shops have started to sell costumes for children, but it has only recently gained popularity in the last few years – more as a novelty.  I’d have to say that the Argentines that I saw in costume (which may only be a small sampling, but my observation, nonetheless) took on the zombie, horror feel of Halloween.  I feel like in the U.S. (or again, maybe just amongst my friends), it’s become more about thematic, satirical, or creative costumes rather than grotesque.

group of Argentines gathering at the Cathedral getting ready for what must have been a pub crawl

Despite the Halloween fiestas, I opted to celebrate my good friend, Ana’s birthday.

Ana

 

Kirchner doesn't count toward the Census

October 27 was officially the Census Day.  A day when everyone is required to stay in the place of residence until being censado (censused).  All businesses were mandated to be closed until 8:00 pm - grocery stores, restaurants, offices, theaters, cinemas, etc.  Only medical services and garbage collection were some of he few areas allowed to stay open.  I really have to question whether it's efficient to completely shut down a country for a full day and accurate to limit it to one day.  But those don't tend to be two qualities at the top of the Argentine government's agenda.  This was the solution to the 2000 census that was suspected of being faulty...

Streets were as quiet as during the World Cup.  There were people riding their bikes in the middle of the 6 lane Avenida Córdoba.  As I got closer to the parks, people started to appear – everyone was out without any entertainment provided for them – groups of teens with fútbols, foreigners with frisbees, families on bikes, couples paseando (strolling), groups of friends drinking mate.  It was a very unique experience to see everyone out on a Wednesday afternoon with absolutely all businesses closed (except one café on Avenida Libertador that somehow was open and bustling with customers pining for their midday merienda (snack)).

The day began with a somber sentiment (or elated, depending on your position), however, as the recent ex-president and husband of the current president, Néstor Kirchner passed away at 8:30 am from a heart attack.  The country is divided in their support for the Kirchner regime (Néstor was the president from 2003 to 2007 and followed by his wife, Cristina, and it was intended that he would regain the position in the upcoming 2011 elections).

Here is a sampling of some of my friends’ Facebook statuses to demonstrate the array of opinions:

Argentines

A cada cual..le llega en su momento justo.

To each comes their just moment.

Hoy me levante con una sonrisa tremenda, la censista estaba tremenda y encima murió el HDP del N.K.
Sera que a la Argentina le queda prendida una velita de esperanza?
Falta que se muera la yegua de la mujer y salgo en bolas a festejar al obelisco!!!!

Today I woke up with a tremendous smile, the census was tremendous and on top of it all the SOB of N.K. [Néstor Krichner] died.

Can it be that a spark of hope remains for Argentina?

All the remains it that the whore of his wife dies and I’ll party naked in the Obelisk!!!!

Vamos mierda.... la pagaste con la vida hijo de p...

Vamos ahora faltaaaaa la otra yeguaaa!!

...uno menos!!!!!

Un montonero menosssssssssssssssss

Viva la Patria Carajo!!!!! Un Montonero menos. Viva, Viva, Viva. Carajo, Mierda. No le deseo la muerte a nadie, PERO UNA LACRA MENOS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Let’s go little shit...you paid it with your life you son of a b****...

Let’s go now only the other whore is left!!

…one less!!!!!

One guerrilla lesssssssssss

Long live the Patria Damn It!!!!  One Guerrilla less. Long live, long live, long live. Damn it, shit. I don’t wish death on anyone, BUT ONE LESS CURSE!!!!!!!!!!!

cuanta tristeza compañeros, union y mas union en estos momentos, que la batalla es eterna

eternamente un pueblo agradecido: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkXKNgObmUc

how much sadness friends, united and more united in these moments, the battle is eternal

a town eternally thankful: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkXKNgObmUc

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Consternacion! No era santo de mi devocion, pero hay que respetar. Fue presidente electo por el pueblo Argentino, en democracia. Mis pesames a la familia Kirchner. Nestor Kirchner, QEPD.

WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (That’s in English) Constarnation! He wasn’t a saint, but you have to respect. He was the elected president for the towns of Argentina, in democracy. My condolences    to the Kirchner family. Nestor Kirchner, RIP.

Ex-pats

Lamentable noticia: El ex presidente Néstor Kirchner ha fallecido

Sad news: The ex predsident Néstor Kirchner passed away

RIP Néstor Kirchner

R.I.P. Nestor

It's going to be interesting to watch what happens

Time

The Economist

Reuters

Clarin

memorials in the Plaza de Mayo

Supermarket circuit

As my usual supermarket doesn’t have the largest selection of food, I’ve started to branch out and find others – but none of them have everything, so it becomes a circuit of supermercados to get everything that I need.  I started at the new dietética (health food stores that were started for diabetics) that opened a block away about a month ago.  I went into a daze with the amount of products that I had yet to encounter in Buenos Aires: pecans, pistachios, freshly dried fruit, flax seed, and so much more!  I assured the saleswoman that I would return frequently.  From there, I headed to the carnicería (butcher) that I had stumbled upon a few days prior.  They had turkey breast and Dijon mustard (about 5 varieties!) and tortillas!  Plus, the clerks were much more amiable than those at my regular supermarket.  But I did go there to get my basics: cereal, yogurt, eggs, milk – they’re the cheapest around.  The last stop was Disco, the upper scale grocery store, for my orange juice.  This is a chain grocery store similar to an Argentine version of Kowalski’s – all products are a bit more expensive than other grocery stores, but they do have some specialty items and the store lacks the common smell of rotting fruit.  I go there for my orange juice, because after trying many brands (even those that claim to be 100% juice), the Tropicana is the least sweet, and I can only find it at Disco.  The very last stop was the frutería (fruit stand) that carries some of the freshest fruit around - usually imported from Ecuador or Peru.  So, with seven small plastic bags later, I walked the two more blocks home excited by a successful grocery round.

La Semana de los Cafes Notables

The city of Buenos Aires was putting on a week to celebrate the Cafes Notables.  There are 60 cafes that are deemed “notable” for their history and establishment over the years.  These are the old, antique bars where you can just feel the tango musicians performing as the philosophers and intellectuals gathered.  There is one two blocks from my house, El Bandarín, which has futbol paraphernalia lining the walls.  My new 60-year-old roommate, John, and I headed there to hear a tango singer perform.  It was such a neighborhood experience with a mixture of audience members: there were the old ladies who knew each song word for word, the young couples that came to have a bottle of beer, the passerby on a bicycle who stopped to hear the music, the Hassidic Jew on the other side of the street making a phone call, the skateboarders on their way home who mouthed the words along with the singer, and the people arriving in taxi who were deliberately coming for the event. It was a beautiful Monday evening with a nice breeze and sweet tango music wafting out from the bar!

Ciclo de Teatro Isleño

My Brazilian friend, Vicky, invited me to a Ciclo de Teatro Isleño (Island Theater Series) in El Tigre, a delta an hour north of Buenos Aires.  We took the train up to Tigre and then boarded a long ferry boat that took us deep into the delta.

Upon arriving 45 minutes later, actors were already in character and areas were set up for different events that would occur throughout the afternoon and evening.

Vicky and I got ourselves some empanadas and choripan (chorizo sandwich) and a bottle of beer and watched the on goings around us.

the grounds

gaucho and his parrilla

 

yoga in the lawn

 

Once the short plays began, everyone migrated from one to the next all around the property.

 

 in the pond

 

There was a little break for everyone to get fueled up again, and Vicky and I split a bowl of locro (stew of corn, chorizo and potatoes) as the sun started to set, taking the warmth along with it.  Not completely prepared for the brisk weather of the delta, I tried to layer in as many shawls and blankets as possible to keep warm, but the bonfire was definitely the best.

bonfire

one of the acts was even in the chicken coop

 














The first ferry to pick up was supposed to come at 9:30 pm and not leave until it was full.  We headed to the dock around 9:15 pm and waited patiently…huddled together to keep warm.  About ten minutes later, one of the organizers of the event came over to inform us that the ferry had already come at 9:00 pm and since nobody was there, it left.  This meant that it had to go 45 minutes back to the mainland and 45 minutes to return.  We just sat trying to focus on something other than the cold. 

the dock

 

There was a huge sigh of relief when it did finally arrive!  The only problem was that it was 11:15 pm by this time and the last train to Buenos Aires left at 12:00 am.  We docked right at 12 and all went running to the train station…only to find that the last train had departed.  So, we all ran to the bus stop and quickly make it on to the bus that goes directly to Buenos Aires…but there weren’t any seats and this bus stopped at EVERY intersection.  It was an exhausting ride but I finally got home and crashed.  Despite the four hours that it took to get home, it was definitely a great experience!

Ceviche y mariscos!

Flor, Natalie and I headed to Barrio Chino (Chinatown) for some fantastic Peruvian ceviche and seafood.  Barrio Chino and Peruvian restaurants are usually the two trusted sources for good seafood in Buenos Aires.  Although the city is on the Río Plata, seafood (particularly shellfish and fish that isn’t salmon or trout) is very scarce and not usually fresh.  It was a real treat to find some good quality fish!

Afterward, we headed to a puertas cerradas (closed doors) bar that had no sign or advertisement outside – you just have to know where it is.  When we knocked on the door, the bouncer had to check if there were 3 seats available for us – they put on the exclusive airs, but once we entered, it was really just kind of a normal bar with a nice ambience.  We each got a drink and called it a night.

to whom does each drink belong...?

...Flor (pregnant), Me (the alcohol drinker), Natalie (the beer drinker)

Aeroparque closed and basureros on strike…but there’s a bicisenda!!

As my driver had warned me when I left Argentina, the domestic airport, Aeroparque, would be closed in October.  It didn’t seem to affect much until I went to collect my luggage.  The line to pass the luggage through the four functioning scanners (that are pretty much a joke anyway) took about an hour to get through because all of the domestic flight were routed through Ezeiza International Airport and must have all arrived at the same time as ours.

My next welcome back to Buenos Aires was the heaps of garbage bags lining the streets.  The basureros (garbagemen) had been on strike for two days.  The garbage collection system in Buenos Aires is one where everyone leaves their garbage on the street starting at 8:00 pm each night (except Saturdays, the basurero’s day off).  Just two days’ worth of garbage had piled up so high that on some corners it was spilling into the streets.  The strike lasted three days, but it certainly made an impact.

The most beautifully positive part of my return, however, was the installation of bicisendas (bike paths) right along my street!  They had blockaded a lane of traffic solely for bicycles.  After seeing the advanced system of bike routes in Vancouver, I could see a spark of hope for the “buenos" aires (“good” airs) down here.

Off to Canadia!

The initial reason for my return was to attend a conference in Vancouver, which turned out to be a city that absolutely fascinated me – from their environmentally conscious transportation systems to the beautiful landscape to the cosmopolitan international makeup of the city.

view of the mountains from the airplane

Seafront

the running path along the seafront

not a  sign typically found in the middle of a city

The City

clouds coming down

Gaslamp District - just blocks away from Vancouver's skidrow (that I accidentally stumbled upon)

Fascinating Transportation

pilot program to close a lane for bike paths

most buses were electric or hybrid

it wasn't uncommon to see multiple hybrid cars in a row - 100% of the taxis were hybrids

 

some Vancouverites don't even walk across the crosswalk - they run (while dribbling a ball?)

...but some walk

Granville Island Public Market

Grouse Mountain

on my solo trek to Dam Mountain - bear scat? wolf scat? dog scat? I took it as a warning, but kept on going...until I ran into a Slovak couple that had just seen a black bear...I turned around and descended the mountain with them

Stanley Park

Despite the cloudy day, I rented a bike and headed to Stanley Park.

SEATTLE

I continued down to Seattle for my second-to-last weekend to meet up with my great friends, Nicole (San Francisco) and Allison (Minneapolis) - we stayed with Nicole's friends, Chad and Justin and their adorable newly adopted daughter, Lauren!

the 45 minute line to enter the U.S. on the Friday of Candian Thanksgiving weekend - they go to the U.S. to shop and return for their Thanksgiving meal on Monday

Nicole, Alyson and Lauren (2.0)

pinball bar

Seattle Public Library

Seattle Public Market

 

the first Starbucks

Nicole, our litttle babushka

Alyson, playing mom

pretty farmer's market flowers

Alyson admiring the Space Needle

After 2 full days of rain, all we had to do was go 15 minutes one way or the other of Seattle for perfectly blue skies - I took a little detour on my way back to Vancouver into a state park on Camano Island.

also happened to stop for some fresh apple cider

view from Justin's apartment in Vancouver on my last night