Tuesday, August 31, 2010

What could happen if you're walking in Buenos Aires without paying attention

get run over by a car
step in dog poop
get run over by a biker
get pickpocketed
get run over by a moped
have a pigeon fly straight at your head
get run over by a taxi
trip on a piece of missing sidewalk
get run over by a bus

Monday, August 30, 2010

Feliz cumpleaños, Javi!! SORPRESA!!!

Meri threw a very impromptu, but wildly successful surprise birthday party for her boyfriend, Javier.  All the Catalanes were there…plus a few new ones…and some Argentines.

Waiting for the birthday boy
Bruno (Tucumán, Argentina) - Lourdes (Barcelona)


















Lluis (Barcelona) - Joan (Barcelona) - Oscar (Barcelona)


















Kilian (Barcelona) - Elisenda (Barcelona) - Flor (France/Barcelona)


















Jimena (Madrid) - Meri (Barcelona) - Kilian (Barcelona) - Elisenda (Barcelona) - Marcela (Buenos Aires) - Flor (France/Barcelona)


















SORPRESA!!






















































recounting the surprise






















































the amazing cake that Marcela made




































gift time - a few shakers
















































"oh, thanks! what is it?!"
























"oh, of course! it's a kalimba! (what?!)"
























"how DOES this gourd work? where are the strings?"
























first attempt
























"now i get it! it's even better than a guitar!"
























with a lot of concentration & collaboration, they'll get it

A local...or just non-threatening?

As I was out for a run today, I got stopped on two separate occasions by people looking for directions.  One was an older, foreign couple looking for the Japanese gardens and the others were two teenage girls looking for a specific street.  In both circumstances, I was at busy intersections with plenty of people around to ask, but they specifically sought my guidance.  This leads me to many possible reasons as to why I was the one out of the crowd that they selected:

1)  I just appear to be such a local.  Unfortunately, in my American running gear, short ponytail and blonde hair, this doesn’t seem like the most appropriate conclusion.

2)  I’m non-threatening. 
This is more likely – probably for the same reasons that I’m not such a local – the workout clothes, Minnesota-nice attitude…

3)  Anyone non-porteño gives better directions.  The typical porteño response when one asks for directions is “por allá” (“over there”) while giving a hand signal directing the person to go straight for what could be one block or 3 kilometers and magically never with any turns.  I was able to give much more exact directions to both couples, so if this was their reason, they were accurate in choosing me.

4)  I looked like an easy target.  One of my first reactions when someone asks me for directions is that it’s only a ploy to rob me, so I’m immediately on guard.  Luckily, the only thing to take from me when I’m running is my house keys, which are clipped to the inside of my sports bra under two shirts, so there’s not too much risk of this being the case.  (Instinctually, however, I always do an inventory check after giving the directions.)

5)  Candid camera. 
There’s a study going on to see if foreigners actually know Buenos Aires, and I was set up…and succeeded twice!

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Bar El Taller is no more

Bar El Taller had been an establishment in the Plaza Serrano for 25 years.  It was set up as a place where music workshops would be held and evolved into one of the most iconic restaurants in Palermo Soho.  The owner had decided to pursue his art rather than keep the restaurant going.  I had gone there in one of my first weeks when I met up with Geraldine, a French girl visiting from Madrid, and I also went with Fernando one of the times that he was in town.  Ana, Meri, Javi and I went to have one last meal.

Meri & Ana so sad about the closing


















la carta (the menu) - that didn't have too much to offer, as they were cleaning out the fridge
























Javier - Meri - Ana


















people sitting on the stairs
















































Javi & Meri in a fog


















working the dulce de leche into the bananas




































el bar

















la banda



































la gente (the people)


















los platos - i guess the dishwasher quit a day early

Saturday, August 28, 2010

A la tercera va la vencida / Third time’s a charm

As it was the last Saturday of the month, we just couldn’t resist going to the Peña la Resentida for the third time.  We were such regulars by now that we (almost) found it on our own from the bus stop.

entrance to the peña
 






















We got our empanadas, bottle of wine, and found ourselves a table to enjoy the music and dancing!

Ana Claudia - Meri - Javier


















Lourdes - Lluis


















Lourdes - Lluis (extra happy) - me


















the "guest" singer who sings the same song every time


















zamba with a pañuelo (scarf)


















this time, there were even FOUR folklore dancers for the show!








































































la banda


Thursday, August 26, 2010

Comida atípica / Atypical food

To welcome Eli’s boyfriend, who was visiting from Barcelona, we went to Enfundá la Mandolina for dinner. 




















It was decorated with such character and warmth – with ties and shoes hanging from the wall and antique irons and soap dishes on another.











































Their slogan is that they serve comida atípica (atypical food), and it was certainly presented in a creative manner, while maintaining the local, traditional preparation and flavors.  A good portion of us had the ossobuco - braised veal shank served with the bone and marrow – absolutely incredible!!



















Somehow, we ended up with a birthday torta de manzana (apple cake).  It was Javier’s birthday a few days later, but we never told the waiter…it was a wonderful surprise, though!



Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Cultural observations

THE PURPOSE OF RUNNING
Two recent comments about running have made me ponder the purpose of running for Argentines (and I’m sure many Americans and other people).  The first was Marisa, who had heard from her masseuse that running, as a high-impact exercise, causes cellulite, and for that reason, she will only walk rapidly.  While it may cause cellulite, a purely cosmetic issue, the positive effects on the cardio-vascular system, muscles, endurance, and overall health outweigh the dimples that I may get in my thighs. 

The second was a comment from a man as I was running past him, “Sos tan bella, ¿para qué corres?” (“You’re so beautiful, why do you need to run?”)  It just seemed to reaffirm the mentality that running is something you do only to be more physically attractive, and if you’re already adequately good looking, running serves no other purpose.

DISPARITY BETWEEN INCOME AND COST OF LIVING

A few months ago, I helped an older couple, Ernesto and Clelia, with their U.S. visa applications so that they could attend a family bat mitzvah in Los Angeles – it was both their first time traveling outside of Argentina.  They had been invited by Ernesto’s cousins that he hadn’t seen in 57 years. 

After they returned, I went to visit Clelia at her shop, and hearing her reaction to the U.S. family’s standard of living gave a real-life example of the disparities that affect Argentines.  She was amazed by the monstrous house of Ernesto’s cousin where they stayed – it was a NINE bedroom house for two retirees.  She noted that their two apartments in Buenos Aires plus their two childrens' apartments would equal the size of the one house in L.A. 

She mentioned that nobody in the U.S. could believe that she and Ernesto both worked about ten hours a day in non-professional positions (they’re actually both officially retired, but their pensions don’t cover the cost of living, so she works at an upscale shoe and handbag shop and Ernesto works as the coordinator of his son’s athletic club). 

All of the U.S. cousins are retired or on vacation and were available to be with Clelia and Ernesto the entire two weeks.  Now, one of the families wants to come down here and visit them, but Clelia’s concerned about not being able to be adequate hosts.  One issue is that getting time off from their jobs is not as easy (it seemed that this was the first time either of them had taken a full two weeks off).  Another is the fact that there isn’t any space to even have their own family in one house; Ernesto and Clelia split their time between their children’s families, because nobody has a large enough apartment to host 3-4 families. 

She visited a friend of hers that lives in L.A., and to compare the life that she was able to obtain in the U.S. seemed to make Clelia a bit disheartened.  Her friend had moved there when she was in her 50s, and now has a very large apartment, a newer car, and she works in a similar position as Clelia for fewer hours. 

She also commented that the pace of life in the U.S. was so much more relaxed than in Buenos Aires.  Upon considering this, I understood what she meant – when you’re caught up in the rush and traffic of the city and working 10-12 hours a day just to make ends meet, it gets extremely wearing.  I reminded myself of the fortunate position that I have here in Buenos Aires: to be living on U.S. dollars, rarely needing to get anywhere quickly or at high traffic hours, and having no financial attachments in the city, such as property or family.  We both noted the irony that we wanted to be in the other’s country.

LENDING A HAND
Even despite everyone’s lack of basic resources here or squandering to obtain the most minimal standard of living, I saw two inspiring acts of kindness today.  I was walking by the Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales and was amazed by all of the stray cats that lived within the gates of the museum.  I hadn’t really seen too many strays in the city, but those on the museum grounds seemed to be pretty content in their confines.  Then, on my way back, I saw a woman pouring cat food into small plastic bowls and scattering the bowls around the fence.  It was such a sweet sight. 

Not only twenty minutes later was I walking down an interior residential street, not paying attention to anyone around me, until I saw a man take out a bag of pastries from his grocery bag and hand it to a couple sitting on the street before getting into his car.  For the hard, haughty stereotype that porteños have, I’d have to say that these two individuals softened my opinion.

Dinosaurios!!

The government of the province of San Juan (in the western part of the country) sponsored a dinosaur exhibit, Titanes de Ischigualasto, in collaboration with the Museo Argentino de la Ciencias Naturales.  Some of the oldest dinosaurs have been discovered in Argentina.  It was an interesting exhibit worth seeing, but definitely geared more to kids.























































this is one of the oldest dinosaurs
 






















































I stopped by the actual museum, which reminded me of a larger-scale Bell Museum in Minneapolis.  It had pretty extensive exhibits on minerals, shells, marine life, Antarctic animals, dinosaurs, mammals, insects, plants, birds, amphibians and reptiles, and there was even a small aquarium and a room displaying the history of the museum with antique cameras and research apparatuses.  Most of the artifacts displayed are native to Argentina or South America (except the taxidermy buffalo, I imagine).

huge oyster
 























wouldn't want to swim next to this


















huge prehistoric armadillo


















mammoths were in Argentina