Sunday, July 11, 2010

LA FIEBRE DE LA COPA MUNDIAL / THE WORLD CUP FEVER

SATURDAY 06/12/10 – SUNDAY 07/11/10

I partook in the national holidays of the World Cup games as much as I could…when you’re down here, there really isn’t much of an option and it sucks you in.  The streets empty, stores close (and if they don’t, you get dirty looks if you want service), businessmen turn into college frat boys, and the entire city changes its mood after the game (depending on the results).

Saturday 06/12/10 at 11:00 am: Argentina vs. Nigeria (0-1)
I was running a little late to get to my friend, Marcela’s house for her World Cup get-together, but didn’t think it was too big of a deal.  In the U.S., it’s customary to show up at least half an hour into a football or baseball game, since they go on forever.  Argentina scored a goal in the first 6 minutes, which I heard from my bedroom as I was getting my things together.  The streets erupted with vuvuzela horns and cars honking.  I knew I had to rush so that I wouldn’t miss any more.  I had one quick change to make – I was about to wear a white and green shirt, and thought that I had better see what color Nigeria was before stepping foot outside of the house…and it was a good thing I checked! 

After a wardrobe change, I headed out to Avenida Córdoba, a 4-lane avenue that, even on a rainy Saturday morning, usually has a good amount of cars on it.  But not during a World Cup game.  Everything was deserted.  I entered the local supermarket to pick up some snacks to bring.  As I entered, all of the store clerks and security guards were hovered around a 13” TV at the front of the store.  I had to wiggle past them to enter – looking like the stupid extranjera (foreigner) who didn’t know that this was a sacred time.  I wanted to defend myself and let them know that I was on my way to watch the game, but I knew that being late to the World Cup had no excuses.  With my tostaditos in hand, I rushed to Marcela’s house.  Through the silence of the street, you could hear the drone of what sounded like mosquitoes inside all of the houses and buildings – everyone with their TV sets on and tuned to the game.  Meri and another friend, Liz, were already there, along with Marcela’s dog, who was all ready to cheer on Argentina!



















Well, I did arrive too late…as I had missed the only goal of the game – Nigeria had a great defense!  But at least, I attempted and got in the spirit.

Liz (U.S.), Meri (Spain), Me, Marcela (Argentina)


















Sunday 06/13/10
As I was running around the Bosques de Palermo, the World Cup theme song, Wavin’ Flag by K’aan and David Bisbal was blasting from a soccer club across the way.  It put a spring in my step and carried me through my run.

Monday 06/14/10
The only time my roommates were up before 11:00 am was to watch the World Cup games.

 



































Thursday 06/17/10 at 8:30 am: Argentina vs. South Korea (4:1)
I had to completely miss this game, as I waswaiting for a package to arrive from DHL.  I did hear the 4 goals made by Argentina – again through my bedroom window as the city shouted out in joy.  I barely heard the 1 goal that South Korea made, though, as it was late enough in the game that nobody was too upset.

Tuesday 06/22/10 at 3:30 pm: Argentina vs. Greece (2:0)
As I mentioned before, Argentines are always on time for fútbol.  They may not be extremely punctual for much else, but when it comes to fútbol, on time is late.  And that’s what my friend, Joaquin and I discovered as we approached Parque Centenario to watch the game outside on a big screen.  The day was perfectly crisp and sunny, and we were both really excited to be able to enjoy the game outdoors.  The amphitheater where it was being shown was enclosed and had already met the capacity when we arrived at 3:15 pm.  We quickly took the subte to Plaza San Martín on the other side of town.  We passed down Avenida Florida and people were huddling around the TVs in the electronics stores.





































We were able to get into Plaza San Martín, but it, too, was extremely crowded.



















people in trees to get a better view
 










































on lamp posts


















on shoulders
 























in the bushes
 

















After trying to see over the hundreds of people, we were about to give up and watch from a bar, but tried one more spot and found perfect viewing.  It was so great to be amongst a crowd to watch the game and see the reactions of the people.




























































Joaquin and I


















There was a moment when the cars at the intersection below started to honk and go nuts and then seconds later, we saw the goal on the big screen – the radio had transmitted the game quicker.

confetti and cheering for the first goal


















Then, when Maradona (the coach) put Palermo in, the crowd went wild.  For every World Cup, something’s gone wrong where he hasn’t been able to play, and this is one of the last years before his retirement.  Joaquin explained that he was added for the merit of it, and he certainly deserved it as he scored the last goal with one minute remaining.

confetti and cheering for the last goal and the end of the game









 








As we walked back home from the plaza, it was entertaining to see the businessmen wearing the patriotic Cat in the Hat hats and blowing on vuvuzelas while business women removed their Argentine jersey that they had put on solely for the game.

Argentina gear










































Sunday 06/27/10 at 3:30 pm: Argentina vs. Mexico (3:1)
Even though my taxi was picking me up an hour later, I made a point of buying a (knock-off) jersey in San Telmo and wearing it to watch my last World Cup game in Argentina.  We needed some lunch, though, and as I ventured out at 3:15 pm to find an open place (on a Sunday afternoon, on top of it), there was absolutely nothing.  So, I got some GIGANTIC milanesas at the only local parrilla to share with the roommates.

the Copa feast
























me and my milanesa


















Angie and Ariel


















Joe and his cerveza y milanesa


















which jerseys are truchos (knock-offs)?


















GOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!


















the off sides debate that supposedly caused the Mexican team to lose the game


















GANAMOS!!!


















When the taxi driver picked me up, we continued listening on the radio and then I rushed into the airport to catch the last 15 minutes.  Everyone was crowded around a small TV in the cafeteria in the front of the ticketing area – and the ticketing booths were empty.  As the game finished, everyone let out a victorious roar and applauded…and the rhythm of the airport went back to the normal hustle and bustle.  I realized that I had forgotten to take off my jersey and looked like the typical tourist, but oh well!  I guess that in the end, I am.

Saturday 07/03/10 at 9:00 am CDT: Argentina vs. Germany (0:4)
I was back in the States, in my cousin’s bridal suite, helping her get ready for her big day, but had to watch the World Cup to see how we did against Germany.  Needless to say, I was very happy not to be in Argentina after such a depressing game.



















Sunday 07/11/10 at 1:30 pm CDT: Spain vs. Netherlands (1:0)
I changed my allegiances to my former host country, Spain, and threw a World Cup party at my parents’ house.  It was quite a fun time to share with my friends and family in Minnesota!!  (And thank goodness it didn’t go into a shoot out!)











































Saturday, June 26, 2010

Peña!!


As a last hurrah before I left for the U.S., we went to the Peña La Resentida again.  It was quite a blast and a great way to spend my last night in Buenos Aires!

folklore dance lessons






















































Lluis y Lourdes


















Meri y Marcela


















Mi, Ana, otra amiga, Mariela


















los catalanes: Lluis, Lourdes, Elisenda y Meritxell




































la banda


Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Fortunes told


It was one of Flor’s last night in Buenos Aires before she went to Barcelona and France for a month and before I returned to the U.S., so we had another dinner at Sarkis, the Armenian restaurant.  The previous time, we had tried to get our coffee remains read by the fortune teller, but were too late.  So, this time, we arrived early enough and reserved our turns.





































Naty ready for her reading
























I'm ready


















the number for my turn


















Meri's ready


















Flor is re contenta for her turn
























We’ll just have to see if my fortune comes true.

Monday, June 21, 2010

Día de la Bandera / Flag Day


So, I’m sure that most Americans don’t know that our Flag Day is June 6, but Argentines certainly know when theirs is…because it’s a holiday!  The actual Flag Day is June 20, but since it fell on a Sunday, they get Monday off of work!  To celebrate, Marisa’s parents came over and made us chorizos a la pumarola.  It’s a sausage dish that’s served with mashed potatoes – quite tasty!!

Marisa y su papá


















Melina y Marisa
























intently watching the World Cup game


















the chorizos a la pumarola
























todos juntos / everyone together


















serving #1
























chorizos a la pumarola


















torta de dulce de leche


















After being fed about 4 portions, her mom came out with 4 different desserts: dulce de leche cake, apple tart, ricotta cake and cream cake!

Needless to say, after all of that, we needed to do some dancing to work it off.

Marisa's parents tango-ing


















Melina and Joe took the floor...as Ariel was fixated on the game


















Melina trying to position Marisa correctly for her tango posture


















my turn with the Australian tango dancer


















then it was salsa time


















then came chacarera




































As the sun set, I met up with my friend, Joaquin, to watch the lighting of the Cabildo (Town Hall).  This show had been part of the Bicentennial celebrations, but they repeated it for Flag Day.  It was a recounting of the past 200 years of Argentina all projected on the town hall.  We could see through some of the government propaganda, but it was really well presented.









































































the Perons
























los desaparecidos / the disappeared (during the dictatorship)